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Globalism, has given us identikit cities worldwide. A seeping monoculture squeezing out heritage and diversity, leaving streets dominated by similar constructions and the same international brands.
It’s harder to find travel locations that feel real and authentic, and living in central London, we needn't journey across borders to wonder at more branches of Starbucks or Chanel. My preference is to lose myself in the expanses of empty nature, but I’m also fascinated by the culture of those less affected corners of the world. That’s not looking for a medieval re-enactment, I can save that for am-dram, just something more connected to the history of a region and its people.
Under the cloak of communism Vietnam has remained culturally diverse. They have documented their 54 identified ethnicities and have a large museum in the capital with active displays in the galleries, and full-size village buildings in the gardens. The most populous group, the Kinh majority, number in the tens of millions, others just single digit thousands, clinging to historic cultures far away within the mountainous topography, with their own languages and traditions. The Museum of Ethnology is well worth a visit if you’re passing through Hanoi.
I like walking and would never normally afford myself the use of resort buggies, but here the forested strolls are long and steep in places with some higher chalets a mile from the reception hub, so I did succumb on occasion if the evening Negroni effects were still lingering.
The craftsmanship and curation of interior design is exceptional within the constructed authenticity of the buildings that meld themselves into the surrounding nature. Achieving this effect where it doesn’t look or feel contrived takes a rare level of creative brilliance.
It’s often the thoughtful soft touches that separate the best from the rest and Bai San Ho has them aplenty. A level of housekeeping warmth that would suggest a proprietary matriarch overseeing every detail.
Afternoon tea on one of the many tranquil verandas encourages a calmer pace.
There's plenty to do if you feel fidgety, I didn’t. Snorkel the coral reefs or explore the bay by catamaran. Embark on a historic journey back to the 11th-century Cham dynasty, with temple bells and blessings at Quy Nhon. Learn the local craft of fishing and dine on a Vietnamese long boat. A tennis court and a well-appointed gym are set back within the forested area.
Wellbeing is at the heart of these resorts, so a great spa is a given.
Guests can detox and recharge, forget about time, and let the hours glide effortlessly by, relaxing with the signature ‘Sea Elixir’ treatment. Blissful.
Last year I visited Zannier’s Cambodian retreat, Phum Baitang in Siem Reap. A favourite of Angelina Jolie, it’s the perfect launch point for discovering Angkor Wat. You can read about it here
Michael Van Clarke
“What’s he going to tell us now?” I hear you say. “Taliban warlords make shampoo in their poppy fields! Colombian cartels launch new crack-cocaine conditioner!”
Not quite, but...
These are the last months of plentiful blood oranges which go to make this recipe such a mouth-watering treat.
The fruit has crimson or blood coloured flesh which comes from the anthocyanins, a family of polyphenols. The red colour comes when the fruit develops with low overnight temperatures as in the Mediterranean winters, so peak season is February to April.
You can fake it with the ‘head upside down and empty a can of hairspray’ trick, but I don’t recommend this. For volume that looks and feels natural and lasts, the following ideas help. The more techniques you use the more lasting the volume.